P1: Start between Hartford and MD 20/20.  Follow face up to large horizontal crack with tree.  Bolted anchor above. 

  P2: Traverse up left past one bolt to a large ledge with bolted anchors. 

  P3: Follow bolts (some are spinners) up slab staying slightly left until bolted anchor. 

  Descent: to rappel P3 a 30 meter rappel is not sufficient.  You can climb to the top of the dome and walk down but rappelling would be quicker/easier with a rope long enough.

Dome Driver

Boston

Hartford

MD 20/20

Ripple

Newark

TJ Swan

The Kracken

Hartford is a two pitch route that begins just right of Boston.  Look for a tree along the overlap to the right of the notch on Boston.  Hartford begins just below and left of the tree. 

  P1. Climb the thin slab past a single bolt aiming for a point on the overlap just to the left of the tree.  Pull the overlap using big holds to gain the slab above.  Thin slab climbing leads past three more bolts to anchors located just below the Beer Can Alley.   

  P2. From the anchors, step right and climb past three bolts to a ledge with a tree on.  The climb gets a little confusing above the ledge as you can see a number of bolts that belong to different routes.  The actual line continues straight up and then veers slightly to the right passing three additional bolts.  The anchors are on a sloping face. 

  Rappel the route to get back to the ground.

Boston is a fun two pitch route that marks the far left side of the Cheap Wine Wall.  It is located just right of the flake/overlap that divides the Cheap Wine and Devil�s Slide areas.  To find the start of the climb, look for a prominent notch in the overlap approximately 30 feet above the ground. 

  P1. Climb the poorly protected slab to the notch (there is a decent stopper placement about 2/3 of the way up the slab to protect these opening moves).  Once at the notch, look for a bomber #2 Camalot placement inside the notch and then pull through the overlap on big holds (fun moves).  Continue up the face above the overlap past a couple gear placement and two bolts before reaching the anchors at a ledge with a tree and a large flake. 

  P2. Climb the flake (large gear, #3.5 or #4 Camalot) to the top where it ends at a second smaller tree.  From the top of the flake, follow a black, unprotected water streak to the anchors.  While the upper section lacks pro, the climbing is easy and the angle eases off as you get higher. 

  To descend, rap with two ropes back to the P1 anchors.  As second two rope rap will get you to the ground.  When we climbed the route, we had a single 60m rope and had to downclimb the last 10 feet of each pitch.

Originally a top rope route, this fine Enchanted Rock climb was later bolted by the first ascensionist in order to entertain the pleading cries of the masses to make it a bold lead. Certainly bold since the average stretch between bolts is 20'+ feet, including a "heady" section between bolt #3 and #4....a possible ankle breaker on the slab underneath the overlap. A quality slab route nonetheless! Highly recommended! 

  Start by locating 2 bolts on the initial slab section (15' left of Ripple and 10' right of an obvious black stain...often wet). Clip the 2 bolts while heading up to the overlap/headwall. Clip the 3rd bolt above the overlap (a height dependant reach to clip) and make a balancy mantle onto the slab above. Delicate footwork and small crimps up and slightly right lead to clipping the 4th bolt (the crux...a mental one for sure!). From bolt #4, continue up the dark section of rock and clip the 5th bolt and eventually to the achors above. Lower off with a 6o meter rope.

Ripple is a fantastic, sustained slab route located on the far right side of the Cheap Wine Area (when facing the wall).  To find the climb follow the trail at the base of the wall past the end of the overlap (the same overlap with the notch on the left side - see Boston).  Where the overlap "merges" into the wall forming a short headwall is the crux on T.J. Swan.  A few more feet along the wall and you'll come to a boulder/slab leaning up against the wall.  Ripple starts from the top of the slab.  Climb a shallow, left-facing groove past the first bolt.  Continue up the namesake ripple (thinner than it looks) past a final steep section (crux) to the anchors.  The climb is well protected with six bolts, but they are far enough apart to keep the climbing exciting.  The climbing does not let up until you reach the anchors.  The best option for descending is to traverse left and down to the T.J. Swan anchors and rap with a single 60m rope from there (a 50m rope would require some downclimbing).  Fun, worthwhile route.

This approximately 125' climb is one pitch, but you will have to climb something else to reach the starting ledge. The starting ledge is about 120' up the wall. 

  From the ledge where Boston, Kracken, and Newark meet follow the line of bolts up and left. Two bolts are found on the head wall as you leave the ledge. Four more bolts are found on the lower angle slab above the head wall. Three of the upper bolts and the top anchors are shared with Mark of the Beast.  

  To descend either take two ropes to rap, walk off, or rap from the News Wall anchors on a single 60m.

Climb the flake that starts Ripple. At the top of it step off left and climb delicate edges to first bolt below bulge section. Through the bulge and to another bolt (crux), then onward past four more to anchor. A little headier than MD20/20 but still around 5.8.

You can not rap or lower off either pitch of this climb with a single 60 Meter rope. 

  The Kracken is named for James Crump's internet handle. Crump is responsible for much of the parks early development and many of it's first ascents. 

  This route was bolted on lead in 2008 in old school traditional style. To my knowledge this is the last line at Erock to be bolted from the ground up. Since then it has become a very popular line. Presumably because it is quite reasonably protected by Erock standards. 

  Pitch 1: Start on the low angle slab and clip one bolt before the overlap. The second bolt can be found on top of the overlap and can be clipped before pulling the first of two cruxes. Above the overlap continue up easy well featured slab, following the line of bolts. Belay on the large comfortable Boston Ledge under the trees. Double bolted rap bolts are found here. Take long slings or know how to anchor in with the rope. The anchors are otherwise placed a bit too high and far apart to allow for a comfortable belay. 

  Pitch 2: There are two bolted lines leaving the ledge. The first bolt above the ledge can be used for both. Kracken is the line to the right and Newark goes left. After clipping the second bolt it may be helpful to back track and unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag. The third bolt protects the second crux. After the crux, climb the lower angle black streak that is shared with Dome Driver. Three more bolts are located on the black streak before reaching the double bolted anchors that are also shared with Dome Driver. From here there is a short 4th class scramble to the top if you are walking off or rappelling with a single sixty from the News Wall anchors. Some will prefer to be belayed for the scramble off.

The Cheap Wine Wall is the second to last wall along the Backside of Main Dome, and encompasses the area between Newark (left side) and Ripple (far right).  It is home to nine quality routes, all between 5.7 and 5.9+.  The three climbs on the right side of the wall are single pitch bolted slabs while the lines on the left side tend to be longer (up to two pitches) with mixed protection (bolts and gear).  What differentiates the Cheap Wine Wall from the areas to its left and right are the horizontal overlaps and ledges that are found across the wall.  The first feature is a large overlap the arcs up and right from Boston to T.J Swan.  Bear Can Ally is the ledge that starts above Dome Driver and continues up and right to the next wall.  Broadway Ledge is above Bear Can Ally.  Trees along all of these features make for good landmarks.  Ripple (5.9+) and Dome Driver (5.7) are classics and not to be missed.

Description

Protection

Routes in Cheap Wine Wall